Coalition supported by Abrapa (Brazilian Cotton Growers Association) and Anea (Brazilian Cotton Exporters Association) calls for fair assessment of natural fibres such as cotton under the upcoming EU textile Ecodesign requirements
Make the Label Count (MTLC), an international coalition representing the natural fibre and renewable materials value chain, has called on the European Commission to ensure that sustainably sourced renewable materials (SSRMs) are properly recognised and defined as part of the European Union’s upcoming textile Ecodesign requirements.
In a public letter sent on 29 June to European Commissioner for Environment, Water Resilience and a Competitive Circular Economy, Jessika Roswall, the coalition argues that future rules should avoid narrow definitions based primarily on recyclability or limited lifecycle metrics. Instead, it calls for a criteria-based approach that reflects the broader environmental and social benefits delivered by renewable natural materials.
A call for broader sustainability criteria
According to the coalition, the future definition of SSRMs should consider factors such as responsible agricultural practices, soil health, water stewardship, biodiversity protection and the resilience of rural communities, rather than establishing a rigid hierarchy of materials.
The letter also stresses that any recognition of sustainably sourced renewable materials should be accompanied by equivalent transparency requirements for non-renewable fossil-based fibres. It argues that all materials should be evaluated under comparable criteria, including the origin of feedstocks, sourcing practices, production impacts and end-of-life outcomes, ensuring a balanced assessment across all fibre types.
“Brazilian cotton proves that scale and sustainability can go hand in hand. As the global textile sector evolves, sustainability frameworks must be built on credible, science-based methods that ensure a level playing field for all materials.” Lisa Ventura, Head of International Partnerships, Abrapa.
As an active member of Make the Label Count, Abrapa fully supports the initiative as part of its ongoing engagement with European policymakers. The coalition’s message was also featured by POLITICO, helping bring the discussion to a broader audience involved in shaping future EU textile policy.
Why it matters
For Abrapa, the discussion is particularly relevant as European sustainability regulations are expected to influence textile markets well beyond the European Union. Ensuring that natural fibres are assessed through comprehensive, science-based and comparable methodologies is essential to creating a level playing field for all materials.
Make the Label Count brings together more than 80 organisations, including natural fibre and material producers, manufacturers, brands and non-governmental organisations. The coalition advocates for fair, credible and science-based methods to measure textile sustainability, ensuring that natural fibres and renewable materials are evaluated accurately and on equal terms with synthetic alternatives.
Through its work within the coalition, Abrapa is helping ensure that the perspective of Brazilian cotton producers is represented in one of the most significant policy discussions shaping the future of sustainable textiles in Europe.
