World Cotton Day is celebrated each year on the 7th of October. Ideally, on this occasion, we, as cotton producers, would take the opportunity to celebrate the successes of the Brazilian cotton-farming sector, to highlight the many uses and benefits of this productive plant, and praise the virtues of our natural fibre, such as its comfort and breathability.

At present, however, a more pressing issue compels us to broaden our focus. Beyond emphasizing the qualities of cotton itself, we must draw attention to the key role it can play in addressing a modern-day threat: the public health challenge that microplastics represent. Yet, on this day, it is still worth celebrating that Brazilian cotton stands ready to help the global textile industry to address this pivotal moment it faces.
Over recent decades, synthetics have overtaken natural fabrics. In 1962, cotton represented nearly two-thirds of global textile fibre. Today, it accounts for less than one-quarter, with the overwhelming majority of the remainder being polyester and other synthetic, manmade, fossil-based fibres. (Textile Exchange, Materials Market Report, 2023). This shift has massively reshaped the textile world’s environmental footprint.

Synthetic fibres such as polyester are made from non-renewable, fossil-based feedstocks; in short, they are plastics. With every wear and wash, they shed particles smaller than five millimetres, known as microplastics. A single person can release nearly 300 million microplastic particles in one year through laundry alone, and more than 900 million simply by wearing synthetic clothing (De Falco et al, 2019). The European Environment Agency estimates that synthetic textiles are responsible for 35% of all primary microplastic pollution.

A study published in Nature magazine in 2024 found that the apparel sector generated 8.3 million tonnes of plastic pollution in 2019 – 14% of all sectors – with synthetic textile waste as the main source (Kounina et al). This so-called ‘macro’ plastic waste does not biodegrade; it merely breaks down into microplastics over time, releasing the minto the environment.

Synthetic textiles have, thus, emerged as a pervasive source of long-term contamination, responsible for more than a third of primary microplastics entering the oceans (IUCN, 2017). Microplastics are also in our rivers, in the soil we grow our food on, and even in the air we breathe. Research suggests that up to 65% of textile-derived microplastics may become airborne (OECD, 2020), creating a direct pathway from clothing to human exposure.

To put this into perspective: these particles persist in indoor air, settle on surfaces, and accumulate in household dust. One study suggests that, if laid out in a line, the amount of microplastics a human could inhale over a lifetime could reach nearly the height of Yr Wyddfa (the highest mountain in Wales, also known as Mount Snowdon – 1,085 m or 3,560 ft).

Microplastics accumulate in the human body. They have been detected in lungs, kidneys, brains, placentae, and breast milk (Daud and Astuti, 2021). The scale of exposure is undeniable. While direct cause-and-effect is still being studied, the chemicals in plastics, such as endocrine disruptors, are already known to cause health problems.  The build-up of microplastics in the human body is being linked to reduced blood oxygen saturation, tissue damage and inflammation, and respiratory and digestive problems (Daud and Astuti, 2021). They are also associated with increased risks of cardiovascular disease, infertility, and even cancer (University of California, 2024).  Microplastics found in human brains may be at least partly responsible for the exponential increase in cases of dementia: a recent study found individuals with dementia had “a much higher concentration than that found in normal brains” – more than five times more microplastics than in healthy brains (Bherer & Thorin, August 2025).
Fortunately, alternatives already exist. Brazilian cotton offers a scalable, renewable, and biodegradable option that meets both environmental and human health needs. It is cultivated in living systems designed to regenerate rather than deplete. As the world’s largest cotton exporter, Brazil is a case study in the sustainable, fair and responsible scaling of natural fibre production. Our cotton sector is built on regenerative agriculture, land-use efficiency, and water stewardship – a model that aligns productivity with ecological resilience.

Our focus has always been on doing more with less. Since the 1980s, Brazil has increased cotton output by nearly 500% while halving the cotton cultivated area. This represents an eightfold increase in yield,  reflecting decades of agronomic innovation, research investment, and sustainable land management.

Most Brazilian cotton is grown in rotation with food or feed crops, often as a second crop. This practice enhances soil fertility, breaks pest cycles, and reduces the need for chemical inputs. No-till farming prevents erosion and builds organic matter, while cover cropping supports pollinators and sequesters carbon in the soil. These methods strengthen ecosystems and improve long-term soil viability.

Water efficiency is another defining strength. Brazil is the world leader in rainfed cotton production, with 92% of the crop grown relying solely on rainfall. This dramatically reduces pressure on freshwater resources and removes the need for large-scale irrigation –  a critical advantage in a world facing increasing water scarcity.

Certified and verified sustainability

Brazil’s commitment to sustainability is not merely a matter of practice but also of proof. The country has developed robust systems to ensure that environmental and social standards are both met and transparently communicated.

The Responsible Brazilian Cotton (ABR) Programme, aligned with the Better Cotton Standard, certifies farms against 175 criteria covering soil and water management, biodiversity protection, workers’ rights, and community development. Independent annual audits ensure credibility and continuous improvement.

Complementing this, Brazil has implemented traceability systems that connect sustainable practices to tangible outcomes. The Abrapa Identification System (SAI) assigns a unique barcode to every bale, documenting its journey from farm to mill. The SouABR programme extends this traceability to garments, allowing brands and consumers to verify origin and certification status.

By the end of 2024, more than 190,000 traceable garments had been produced under SouABR, involving 79 producers, 99 farms, and over 41,000 bales of cotton. Brands such as C&A, Calvin Klein, and Döhler have adopted the programme, recognising that transparency is both a consumer expectation and a competitive advantage.

By documenting every stage of production, Brazil’s traceability systems guarantee that the cotton reaching consumers is genuinely sustainable, grown and integrated into agricultural systems that support both food and fibre production. Moreover, cotton is not only environmentally friendly during its production and life cycle,  but also biodegrades rapidly – up to 99% in compost and 95% in water – leaving no lasting trace in ecosystems.

Closing the gap

Despite growing awareness, natural fibres  still represent only a fraction of global textile production. Surveys show that while many consumers express concern about sustainability, only 38% actively choose natural fibres when shopping. Price and convenience continue to drive behaviour, even as the environmental and health costs of synthetics become ever clearer.

Closing this gap requires coordinated action across the value chain. Policy incentives, clearer labelling, and public education can encourage uptake. Brands must invest in sustainable sourcing and responsible design. Producers must continue to innovate, improving yields and reducing inputs while demonstrating that natural fibres can meet global demand without compromising environmental integrity.
Cotton is far more than a commodity: it is a global public good. Produced in more than 90 countries across five continents, it is a source of income for over 300 million families worldwide, many of whom are smallholder farmers in rural communities in developing countries (UNIDO, 2023). The UN estimates that a single tonne of cotton provides year-round employment for an average of five people, supporting livelihoods, communities, and socio-economic development (UNCTAD, 2022).

Cotton: the fibre for the future 

Brazil’s leadership shows that with innovation, accountability, and regenerative thinking, cotton can be produced in ways that benefit both people and the planet   – reshaping the textile industry for the better. As President of the Association of Brazilian Cotton Producers, I am proud of how our sector is leading by example, not only in production, but in our commitment to continuous improvement, collaboration, and transparency. Brazil’s cotton story offers a blueprint for how sustainability, scale, and integrity can come together, not only in the fields, but in the fabric of everyday life.

As we celebrate World Cotton Day this October, my message is clear: the fibres we choose shape the future we build. As the world confronts climate change, biodiversity loss, plastic pollution, and a microplastic-driven public health crisis, the need for sustainable, natural fibres has never been greater. The shift from synthetic to natural fibres is not simply a consumer choice – it is an environmental and public health imperative.

 

 

Gustavo Piccoli – president of Abrapa